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7242 Frankford Ave.
Philadelphia, PA 19135

Phone: 215-332-1112

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Educate to Eradicate...
MMA Law Update...
Letter to Dateline ... ?
Perfect 10...
Fun Nail Facts...
Are You a Natural Nail Client...?
Fake Nails a Real Threat...

Educate to Eradicate

*EDUCATE TO ERADICATE*
George Schaeffer President of Nail Manufacturers' Council

With the nail care industry growing and prospering more and more each day, that growth brings new challenges and concerns. One of the largest concerns is how salons can maintain a good reputation in the midst of so many salons that have made consumers fear the use of harmful ingredients.

MMA is an ingredient sometimes found in liquid monomers used to make artificial nail enhancements. MMA is considered safe for dental prosthesis, it is considered a health hazard when used in the salon.

Clients should be warned of the risks associated with MMA including severe allergic reactions, permanent loss of sensation in the fingertips, nail damage and deformities, and respiratory problems with eye, nose and throat irritation. Rigidly adhered acrylic may also lead to serious nail breaks, causing infection and loss of the natural nail. The FDA classifies MMA as "a poisonous and deleterious substance," and has deemed it unsuitable for salon use. Even with this know, there are still salons using liquid monomers containing MMA.

Consumers need to be aware of the signs that a salon may be using MMA.

Nails are difficult or impossible to remove
Nail enhancements won't soak off in solvents designed to remove acrylic.
Electric drills or extremely coarse files need to be used to remove the nails.
Unusually strong or strange odor.
Discount prices for acrylic services. (Monomers formulated with MMA are considerably less expensive to use.)
Secretiveness about bottles, labels or MSDS sheets. (Counterfeiters may be putting MMA in other manufacturer's bottles.)

As long as salons are allowed to use products containing MMA, our entire industry is at risk. Being informed and ready is the first step in stamping out the use of MMA. Getting MMA out of salons and off clients hands will take the combined effort state regulators, salons and consumers.

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MMA Law Update

As a result of federal Food and Drug Administration (FDA) investigations, the FDA concluded that liquid methyl methacrylate is a poisonous and deleterious substance which should not be used in fingernail preparations. Although the FDA did not promulgate a specific regulation prohibiting the use of liquid methyl methacrylate monomer (MMA) in cosmetic nail enhancement products, the FDA obtained a preliminary in junction in 1974 prohibiting a firm from "among other things, introducing, or delivering for introduction, into interstate commerce" a methyl methacrylate-containing cosmetic product known as Long Nails. United States v. C.E.B. Products Inc. 380 F. Supp. 664 (N.D. I11. 1974)

The United States District Court for the Northern District of Illinois ruled that the use of liquid methyl methacrylate monomer in a cosmetic fingernail product caused the article to be adulterated in violation of Section 601(a) of the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDC) and enjoined its further manufacturer and distribution. The court concluded that this product contained a "poisonous and deleterious substance" which, when used according to labeling instruction, may cause serious nail damage or loss, soreness, and in some , infection. The FDA is prepared to consider regulatory action against fingernail products formulated with liquid methyl methacrylate monomer as one of its ingredients.

The State Board of Cosmetology has developed a policy statement and regulation prohibiting the use of nail enhancement products containing methyl methacrylate (MMA). Both the policy statement and regulation are in the process of being officially promulgate and are expected to be published as final in the Pennsylvania Bulletin in the near future.

The policy statement and regulation define use of MMA-containing products on clients as constituting gross incompetency and/or unethical practice. Section 519(a) of the Beauty Culture Law, 63 P.S. §519(a) allows the board to take disciplinary action against licensees for violations of the Law or regulations, or for gross incompetency or unethical practices. Such disciplinary action includes refusal to license or renew, revocation or suspension of current licenses and a $1,000 civil penalty for each violation.

To educate licensees and the public about the dangers of MMA, informational brochures will be distributed to salons and schools. Representatives of the Department of State's Bureau of Enforcement and Investigation have been speaking to groups and associations regarding this important issue

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Letter to Dateline

Dear Dateline:

Congratulations and Thank you!

As we approach the millennium, one aspect of life has helped achieve the American dream and build a healthy corporate America is soon to become a dinosaur; small business.

As a young female entrepreneur, many odds are already stacked against me. Struggles more than challenges that I face, such as chauvinistic attitudes, gender bias, employment issues, lack of work ethics and corrupt politics just to name a few. Small business owners such as myself count on news programs such as yours to educate the public. I hate to
admit, but I believe ignorance amongst the public will cause Americans to be the cause of their own demise.

I am writing this letter in reference to the piece you ran on December 1, 1997 entitled "Getting Nailed" exposing improperly run nail salons. Although another news program did a similar story years ago, this was much needed and very long overdue.

Cosmeticians frequently are the brunt of many jokes, but many of us are professional business people that take pride in the fact that we generate revenue throughout the community. The beauty industry is one of the largest industries and is a business created by hard-working, talented people. Salons like the ones shown in this story create more than just public health hazards. Many of these places are the cause of the deterioration of a healthy economy and the decline of many neighborhoods. These neighborhoods depend on the dollars that the surrounding commercial properties circulate to keep up the quality of life through job opportunities.

These professionals of this industry have been hurt drastically by this rapid growth of dirty, mismanaged and unlicensed nail shops. Locally, through city and state organizations, it has been impossible to shut these places down or even slow down their rapid growth. The USA is the land of opportunity. Capitalism is alive and well. Although this leaves a lot of opportunity for these places to capitalize on the expense of others by taking advantage of an unfair advantage. Is this fair trade? These places have made a mockery of legitimate businesses. Professionals in the beauty industry take our trade seriously and are angry.

Enclosed please find one of the many ways I fought back. I have been
complimented and thanked by my industry peers for speaking out through my ads.

On behalf of my industry peers, thanks again.

Sincerely,

Lois Burak

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Perfect 10

A PERFECT 10...
Tips on getting a safe manicure

      Horror stories abound. Fear is rampant. Caution is advised. Are we talking about a resurgence of the Cold War? An invasion of aliens? No. We're talking manicures here: safe, healthy manicures. And with nail salons popping up on every street corner and in every mall, sometimes it's hard to know who is-and who is not-experienced in giving a proper manicure. There's more to having a safe manicure than simply shaping the nails and applying color. Since we know you want to avoid skin infections, nail fungus, and nails that are so mistreated it's taking weeks for them to grow and begin to look like nails again, we've consulted Lois Burak, owner of Beauty Worx, a full-service salon on Frankford Avenue in Philadelphia, who tells us what to look for when choosing a salon and manicurist.

      Don't be afraid to ask questions about the salon's-and the individual operator's-license and certifications. A license from the Bureau of Occupational Affairs in Harrisburg is the first thing to look for. Oftentimes, it's prominently displayed. If it isn't, ask about it. The individual operators should each be licensed as well. They receive these after having spent a certain amount of hours learning about technique, safety, and other things one needs to know in order to give a proper manicure. The License and Inspections Bureau of Philadelphia makes sure salons maintain certain health standards. According to Burak, they inspect annually, so potential clients should look for their license as well, and make sure it is current.

     If you are an aficionado of artificial nails, be careful of salons that use drills to file down the natural nail and the artificial one once it's in place. Says Burak, who's seen-and fixed-nails that have been mangled by the drill, the best way is the old-fashioned way-by hand. "If you do have artificial nails," says Burak, "keep them clean and dry, keep cuticles pushed back, and make sure you maintain the nails. And, if you do have a break or lose a nail, go to the salon to have it repaired instead of trying to do it yourself. Glue can be pretty tricky to work with, and if it's not applied correctly, you could end up with a fungus."

     The following comes under the heading of "common sense," but, says Burak, "You'd be surprised!" Make sure all metal implements are sterilized before use. Yes, that blue soaking solution really does work, and there are other ways to sterilize as well. Ask, and if you are in doubt bring along your own implements. The table on which you place your hands should sport a clean cloth or paper towel. If it does not, ask the operator to change it.   Many operators request that you wash your hands with an antibacterial soap before your manicure. But, we asked, what about the operator's hands? (Frankly, we've seen too many operators sneeze into their hands, and then proceed with our manicure. Yuck!)   "Besides washing their hands with an antibacterial soap, there's a gel that sanitizes the hands, and is used by both the operator and client," says Burak.   Again, if you are uncertain as to the operator's cleanliness, don't be afraid to ask. The point is to communicate with your operator. If you have an allergy to the adhesive used to secure artificial nails, or if something she is doing hurts, speak up.

     Recent legislation makes it illegal to have your cuticles cut in a Pennsylvania salon. (The same is true for several other states.) Improperly done, cut cuticles allow bacteria to enter the nail bed, creating a great environment for infection. Beauty schools teach students not to cut clients' cuticles. Beauty editors have been telling us for years that the best way to handle wayward cuticles is to soak them and bush them back. (Ragged cuticles are the main reason many women and men we know get their nails manicured in the first place. And, we know of many salons that oblige them.) Speak with your manicurist about the safest way to treat your cuticles.

     Avoid having the sides of the nail filed too close to the corners of the nail bed. This weakens the nail and might prevent healthy growth.

     "Of course," says Burak, "the best way to find a reputable salon is through a referral." And, she cautions, don't choose your manicurist on the basis of price. Cheaper, as is often the case, is not necessarily better.

     As for trends, the most requested nail is an "active length squoval," or squared-off oval. However, longer lengths are becoming popular again, as is airbrushing. Colors run the gamut from the palest pastels for summer to the deepest darks, including metallic greens, blues, and purples for fall through winter. Red is never wrong, and French manicures, declared dead seasons ago by beauty writers and editors, never really went away. Look for them now in many incarnations including pairings of black nails with white or colored tips. What's newest on the nail scene is colored polish for men. Says Burak, "Some men are opting to polish only one nail-the pinky, for instance-in a dark color, as an accent." We've read about it. We've heard about it. We've never seen it. But then again, perhaps we don't get out enough.

Health & Fitness Magazine
August, 1997

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Fun Facts

Nails Grow Faster

During daytime.
During summer months.
During pregnancy.
On young people.
On longer fingers (middle fingers compared to pinkies).
When fingers experience minor trauma such as nail-biting.

Nails Grow Slower

During nighttime.
During winter months.
In cold climates.
On older people.
On women compared to men.
On toenails compared to fingernails.

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Are You a Natural Nail Client?

When should a client opt for natural nails over enhancements? It may be just a matter of personal taste, but there are other factors as well.

Points to consider:

Environment. What kinds of substances, atmosphere and climate is your client exposed to on a regular basis? Elements such as cold weather dry air, chemicals and water are unfriendly to nails and skin. Clients who work outdoors and/or submerge their hands in water frequently (and aren't scrupulous about wearing gloves) should probably stick with natural nails - with a weekly manicure service and a homecare program.

Personal/Professional Activities. Clients who use their hands a lot on the job - cashiers, typists, artists - are good natural nail candidates, unless they can readily adapt to the requirements of maintaining enhancements (for instance, a cashier may need to operate her machine with her knuckles). Hobbies and sports are a consideration as well; water-skiers aren't generally suited to acrylics.

Habits. Clients who bite and pick their nails and cuticles will usually "go to town" on acrylics. It's a good idea to have them go natural - at least while their hands are healing.

Squeamishness. Some clients just aren't psychologically suited to enhancements; they experience something akin to claustrophobia at the notion of nail coverings. Natural nail care is their best bet.

General Health. Although opinions differ widely on this point, many techs believe that clients with health conditions - diabetes and unstable thyroid or those undergoing medical treatments such as chemotherapy, and clients taking medications such as anti-inflammatories - will have more lifting when wearing enhancements

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Fake Nails a Real Threat

By Kirsten Danis and Maria Malave (New York Post 4/18/99)

Women who get fake nails could be getting something else in the bargain - a dangerous dose of poison.

A toxin eradicated from the beauty industry 25 years ago has made a quiet comeback in nail salons nationwide, including New York - and nobody's doing anything to stop it.

Methyl methacrylate (MMA) can rip nails off fingers, cause nerve problems and severe rashes - and over the long term hurt kidneys, livers and fetuses.

"It's being sold openly. You can buy it all over the place," said California beauty-industry chemist Douglas Schoon, who studied the problem.

MMA is found mostly at discount salons because it costs $20 to $60 a gallon, compared to about $200 for top-of-the-line, safer products.

Manicurists combine liquid MMA with a powder to build so-called sculptured, or acrylic, nails. It is also sometimes used in acrylic "wraps" of artificial nail tips.

The super-cheap chemical isn't supposed to be used by manicurists.

But Post reporters easily bought MMA products from two Queens beauty-supply stores - and during a random check of 13 nail salons found the toxin in two of them. Two wouldn't say what they used, and two more didn't know.

Employees at both supply stores said they had no idea MMA shouldn't be used on nails.

Almost no information about the acrylic is available in Korean or Vietnamese - two groups that have cornered the cut-rate salon market.

Competition is so tough, some salon owners get the cheapest product they can find, said Michael Limb, head of the Asian American Advisory Council and member of the state board that licenses manicurists.

"Everybody's got it. Everybody's selling it," said Kevin Bae, a salesman at Hi-Fashion Beauty Supplies in Sunnyside, Queens, one store where The Post bought the chemical.

"If they tell us not to sell it, we'll follow the law," he said.

Federal Food and Drug Administration officials ruled in the early 1970s that MMA is poisonous when used on nails.

The agency seized products - a move that held up in court and effectively killed the market. But the FDA never actually banned it.

"The use seems to be coming back," said Dr. John Bailey, head of the FDA's Office of Cosmetics and Colors. "Our position is still that it's unsafe."

In some people, MMA causes a poison-ivy-like rash and in extremely rare cases causes permanent damage, said Manhattan nail specialist Dr. Richard Scher.

The super-glue chemical bonds so strongly to the natural nail that it can rip the nail right off if it's accidentally bumped, Schoon said.

Workers who breathe MMA for years can suffer kidney and liver lesions, reproductive problems and possibly lung and cardiovascular damage, according to the federal Environmental Protection Agency.

The chemical is manufactured by a handful of mega-corporations that sell it legally to the construction- and dental-supply companies - who are probably diverting it to the beauty industry, Bailey said.

The FDA lacks the manpower to launch a full-blown investigation, he said.

The state, which licenses manicurists and regulates salons, has no rules about its use - although the Health Department is "reviewing" the issue, a spokeswoman said.

Without tight federal or state control, MMA is flourishing again.

When a Post reporter was shopping for acrylic liquids in Queens, a Bronx manicurist whispered she would sell the reporter a gallon for just $35. It turned out to be MMA.

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